Posted kind of with permission . . .
Dave,
So my ride from Kiev to Vilnius was long, wet and cold. I had rain 80% of the time. My feet were wet after one hour, but the good socks made a difference (thanks for those). My feet stayed warm even though they were wet. I ended up putting my feet in plastic bags between two layers of socks inside my boots to help with waterproofing and wind both days. After 3 years I think my “water proof” boots are toast. By day two I realized that the electric vest (only a thin tank top away from my skin) was keeping my core warm. The hands and feet where the challenge. By straightening my arms and legs periodically, the warm blood from my core was able to circulate and reheat the extremities (highway pegs were awesome bonus). Make sure you can slide back enough on your seat to comfortably straighten your arms.
Route finding through Ukraine was hard. I went a completely different route than what we did on the way in (unintentionally of course, but in the end it was better because I never hit a dirt road), except for the last 30 miles when I intersected the road we took. A map would have been super helpful. Even though things aren’t labeled well, getting a native to point your location on the map is all is takes. I found myself several times cruising on an open highway and then suddenly, I’m in city streets in the middle of a town with no sense of direction (overcast) or any orientation and next to zero signage. I asked directions a lot. I had to remind myself that is was better to take the time to establish the route direction rather than putting miles on and hoping for the best (my common approach in the US). A good habit I started to do was pulling off to the side of the road at junctions in front of the major direction road signs and studying them to make sure I was on track, especially with the Cyrillic signage. It gave me all time I needed to analyze the possible directions with no stress of traffic or weather.
I ended up riding at night for about two hours both days. Not my ideal by any standard. I should have left earlier. I’ll say this again, you can’t leave too early.
The border sucked. Lines everywhere. Fortunately, as a moto, everyone (guards, customs, truck drivers, car drivers, polish and Ukrainians) made a point to tell me that I could weave in between all the cars as a moto, so go. I think they we basically like, look, your vehicle can do it…I would do it if I could, so get the fuck up there. It still took me two hours going to the front of lines. One guard talked with me about my moto for 15minutes, then pointed me to the front of the line. We never discussed anything related to customs or immigration….classic. I didn’t need that piece of paper you lost, but now have found, but it’s better to be prepared. No proof of insurance for Poland, just passport and title. The Polish customs agent did a cursory search of my panniers, while the van in front of me was closely inspected for secret compartments (his plate was Ukraine).
I’m so glad I brought food. It meant I didn’t have to stress about being hungry (ie having the right currency, getting healthy food, finding food places). And it meant I saved on time not searching, waiting or getting off route for food. One time I stopped in one of those abandoned bus stops. I pulled my moto underneath, sat on the bench, and laid out my lunch. I was plugged in the whole time and my gloves were cooking on the engine. I was also away from any crowds pestering my about the moto with questions. Any stop around people in Ukraine brought me more attention then I cared for.
Riding solo I found folks more willing to approach me then when we are together. I was offered tea/coffee twice at gas stations from the employees and they wouldn’t take money. They just had compassion for a cold, wet foreigner on his own. I had to buy everything in Poland and was never a speckle like we are in Ukraine.
Also, by paying cash, i got to fill my tank up and then pay. No need to state the liter total in advance like with your credit card. I errored on the side of filling up early and often. I didn’t want to be caught out of gas in Western Ukraine, alone and in miserable weather.
I noticed that by the end of day 1, the constant water was affecting the moto. The chain went dry, the locks and keys got more sticky and the electrics started playing games with me. I had to jiggle stuff and toggle switches to get the moto to start a few times. I still don’t know what really happened, but now with a dry moto there seems to be no evidence of any problems. I lubed the locks, ignition and chain each morning. To lube the chain, I finally used the little drip bottle I bought in Toronto. Without the spray lube we got in Stockholm, I bought a small thing of oil, filled it up and it works great for dispensing at just the right amount.
Points to remember:
-as a moto you can cut the border lines
-buy a map of Ukraine (i used maps in gas stations)
-learn how to say “Poland” in Ukrainian
-leave early
-bring food (enough until your next safe/comfortable destination)
If it’s cold and/or wet:
-balled up extra shirts in sleeves really helped cut the wind
-let the vest heat your body before you start riding
-drying gloves on engine helped
-keep chain lubed (i was bone dry at the end of day 1)
-straighten arms and leg to get hot blood from core to your extremities\
-keep helmet on to retain heat when stopped (60-80% loss out of head or
something like that)
-extra shirt or sweater on my chest to deflect and insulate from cold
air was huge
Two long days of riding in bad weather really taught me how to stay warm. I was in full survival mode. I knew if I was comfortable, that I would make better decisions, for road safety and for route finding. I still don’t have a solution for my face screen fogging, but I think you have that sorted with your face mask.
BOOM…there it is Dave. Good luck,
motoKev
Tags: Kiev, Vilnius, Poland, Ukraine, midliferider
